Colourful half-timbered houses along a canal in Colmar
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Alsace

"The France that looks like Germany and tastes like nowhere else."

Half-timbered villages, Rieslings that convert skeptics, and a Franco-Germanic culture that is entirely its own.

Alsace sits in the northeastern corner of France, pressed against the Rhine and the German border, and its identity reflects the geography. The villages look Bavarian — half-timbered houses in sherbet colours, window boxes overflowing with geraniums, stork nests on church steeples. The food is Franco-Germanic: choucroute garnie, tarte flambée, baeckeoffe. The wine is unambiguously great — Alsatian Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris are among the most expressive whites in Europe, made in a dry style that surprises drinkers expecting sweetness.

The Route des Vins runs 170 kilometers along the eastern foothills of the Vosges, threading through villages that could have been designed as film sets. Riquewihr, Eguisheim, and Kaysersberg are the postcard stops. They are crowded in summer and at Christmas, but visit on a Tuesday in May and you will walk cobblestoned streets in near solitude, ducking into winstubs (wine taverns) where a glass of Grand Cru Riesling costs less than you would believe.

Colmar is the region’s most beautiful city — a smaller, calmer version of Strasbourg with a canal district (Petite Venise) that earns every comparison and the Unterlinden Museum housing Grünewald’s Isenheim Altarpiece, one of the masterpieces of Northern Renaissance art.

Strasbourg is the capital — a European Parliament city with a Gothic cathedral whose astronomical clock performs daily at 12:30, a petite France quarter of medieval tanneries, and a Christmas market that may be the finest in Europe.

When to go: May to June for wildflowers and quiet. September to October for the grape harvest and golden light. December for the Christmas markets, which are genuinely extraordinary.

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Places in Alsace

Andlau
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Andlau

A wine-route village built around an abbey with a carved stone bear on its facade, and two ruined castles in the hills above it that Lia made me hike up to in the rain.

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Bar-le-Duc
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Bar-le-Duc

A Renaissance old town on a hill above the Meuse, famous for a redcurrant jelly seeded one grain at a time with a goose quill, and for the road that supplied Verdun.

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Colmar
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Colmar

The most intact medieval wine town in Alsace — pastel half-timbered houses lean over flower-filled canals in a Little Venice that outcharms Venice.

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Eguisheim
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Eguisheim

A concentric circle of a village outside Colmar, all timber and geraniums, that I go back to every autumn even though everyone says it's a tourist trap.

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Épinal
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Épinal

The Vosges town that gave the French language the phrase 'image d'Épinal', and where I finally understood where half the visual clichés of my own childhood actually came from.

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Hunspach
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Hunspach

A village so uniformly whitewashed and half-timbered it's been officially voted one of the most beautiful in France, tucked into a corner of Alsace most of my French friends have never heard of.

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Kaysersberg
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Kaysersberg

A fortified valley town below a ruined imperial castle, birthplace of Albert Schweitzer, where a fortified bridge and a river running through the middle of the old town made me linger longer than planned.

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Lunéville
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Lunéville

Lorraine's own Versailles, rebuilt almost stone by stone after a 2003 fire, in a town that's been quietly making some of France's finest porcelain for three hundred years.

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Metz
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Metz

A Lorraine city built from a golden local stone, with one of the tallest Gothic cathedrals in France and a light-filled contemporary museum that changed how I think about the region entirely.

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Mulhouse
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Mulhouse

An industrial Alsace city that nobody puts on a postcard, but whose car and railway museums pulled Lia's engineer brain in for a full day we hadn't budgeted.

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Munster
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Munster

The valley town that lent its name to the cheese my Mexican friends politely refuse to smell, and the quiet start of one of the best drives in the Vosges.

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Nancy
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Nancy

A former ducal capital in Lorraine centred on one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, and the unlikely birthplace of the Art Nouveau movement that shaped how I now look at glass.

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Obernai
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Obernai

A market town at the foot of Mont Sainte-Odile that Lia picked almost at random off a map, and which turned out to be one of the least touristy stops on the whole Alsace wine road.

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Ribeauvillé
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Ribeauvillé

A wine town below three ruined castles on a single ridge, home to a stork colony and a pretzel festival I stumbled into completely by accident.

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Riquewihr
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Riquewihr

A walled wine town on the Alsace route des vins so intact it feels frozen in the sixteenth century, ringed by vineyards that climb straight up into the Vosges.

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Rouffach
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Rouffach

The town on the Alsace wine road where I finally understood the geography of the region, because you can stand in one spot and see the Vosges, the vineyards, and the Rhine plain all fall into place.

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Sarrebourg
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Sarrebourg

A modest Lorraine crossroads town that happens to hold one of Chagall's largest stained-glass windows in a converted medieval chapel, which is reason enough to stop between Nancy and Strasbourg.

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Saverne
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Saverne

The town where the Vosges finally give way to a proper gap, guarded by a pink sandstone château the Rohan cardinals built to remind everyone exactly how rich they were.

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Sélestat
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Sélestat

A modest Alsace town between Colmar and Strasbourg holding one of the world's great Renaissance libraries and, less grandly, the first recorded Christmas tree.

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Strasbourg
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Strasbourg

The capital of Alsace straddles France and Germany culturally, its pink sandstone cathedral towering over canals and the world's oldest Christmas market.

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Thann
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Thann

The southern gateway to the Alsace wine road, where a single flamboyant Gothic spire and one of the steepest, strangest vineyards in France quietly outdo half the more famous villages to the north.

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Turckheim
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Turckheim

A tiny walled wine town outside Colmar that still sends a night watchman through its streets every summer evening carrying a lantern and a halberd, exactly as it has for centuries.

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Verdun
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Verdun

A quiet town on the Meuse that carries the weight of the longest battle of the First World War, where the ossuary and the shattered forts taught me more about my own country's history than any classroom ever did.

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Wissembourg
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Wissembourg

The last French town before Germany, where the canal houses lean over the water exactly like Strasbourg's without any of the crowds, and the border feels more like a suggestion than a line.

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