Wahpeton

Wahpeton and its Minnesota twin, Breckenridge, sit on opposite banks of the Red River of the North at the point where the river technically begins, formed by the confluence of the Bois de Sioux and Otter Tail rivers. It’s a modest border town of about eight thousand people, named for the Wahpeton Sioux who lived along this stretch of river long before either state existed, and Lia and I found ourselves charmed by how unbothered it is by its own geography — you cross a bridge, and suddenly you’re in a different state, different time zone technicalities aside, and nobody in town treats it as more than a Tuesday.

Bagg Bonanza Farm

Just north of town sits the Bagg Bonanza Farm, one of the last intact bonanza farms from the era when Northern Pacific Railroad bondholders converted defaulted railroad debt into enormous Red River Valley wheat operations, some running tens of thousands of acres worked by hundreds of hired hands. The farmstead’s original 1880s buildings — a grand farmhouse, bunkhouses, a windmill, sheds sized for an operation that once rivaled a small industrial plant — have been preserved by a local historical society, and a volunteer let us wander the grounds practically alone. Standing in the empty bunkhouse, it was easy to imagine the noise this place must have made at harvest, hundreds of horses and men working wheat fields that stretched further than we could see.

Chahinkapa Zoo and the riverside park

Back in town, the Chahinkapa Zoo occupies a wooded bend of the Red River and, improbably for a town this size, is home to a small herd of rescued elephants — Lia was skeptical until we actually saw them, three African elephants that came from a shuttered zoo elsewhere and now spend their days in a riverside enclosure shaded by cottonwoods. We spent an easy hour there before walking the adjacent riverside trail, watching the Red River slide by slow and brown, exactly the color of the fields it drains.

Getting There

The nearest commercial airport is Fargo Hector International (FAR), about an hour north on I-29 and ND-13. A car is essential for reaching Bagg Bonanza Farm, which sits a few miles outside town on rural roads with no transit access.