Kauai

The first thing anyone tells you about Kauai is how green it is, and you nod, and then you arrive and realize the word was doing no work at all. Lia and I stood at a lookout on our first afternoon, jet-lagged and squinting, and below us the Na Pali cliffs fell in fluted pleats of impossible emerald straight into a sea that broke white at their feet. A rooster, one of the thousands that own this island, crowed somewhere behind us with total indifference. We laughed. It felt like the land was showing off and shrugging at the same time.

The Na Pali Coast

You cannot drive the Na Pali Coast — no road has ever been carved along those cliffs, and that is precisely the point. We saw it three ways over three days. From a small boat that bucked in the swell, close enough to see waterfalls disappearing into sea caves. From the air, in a helicopter with the doors humming, when the whole ridged spine of the coast unrolled beneath us. And on foot, sweating up the muddy first miles of the Kalalau Trail to Hanakapiai Beach, where the surf is beautiful and deadly and a hand-painted sign counts the drownings. Lia kept ahead of me the whole climb. She always does on the hard ones.

Waimea Canyon

Mark Twain supposedly called it the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and whether or not he did, the name stuck for a reason. We drove up the winding road early, before the trade clouds rolled in, and the canyon opened below us in bands of rust and rose and deep volcanic green, a mile wide and thousands of feet deep. It is strange to find this dry, ochre wound in the middle of the wettest island on earth. We hiked out to a lookout where a waterfall threaded down a far red wall, and ate a cold lunch with our legs dangling, saying very little. Some views make conversation feel like litter.

Hanalei and the North Shore

If Waimea is Kauai’s dramatic side, Hanalei is its soft one. We spent our last two days on the north shore, where the bay curves in a wide green arc backed by mountains streaked with waterfalls after every rain — and it rains a lot. We rented a paddleboard on the river, wobbled comically, and drifted past taro fields to the old one-lane bridge. In the evening we sat on the pier as the light went pink over the water and a local kid cast a line beside us without a word. Lia said it felt like the last honest beach town in Hawaii. I did not argue.

Getting There

Kauai’s airport is at Lihue (LIH), reached by direct flights from the U.S. mainland and short hops from Honolulu. A rental car is essential — a single main road rings most of the island, though it does not connect all the way around because of the Na Pali cliffs, so you double back rather than loop. Book Na Pali boat or helicopter tours well ahead, especially in summer, and expect frequent north-shore rain; keep a light rain layer handy and treat the sudden downpours as part of what keeps Kauai this green.