Valladolid

Most people drive through Valladolid on the way between Mérida and Chichén Itzá and note the gas station and the taco stand on the highway. This is the correct behavior for people who have not been told to stop. I was told to stop by a Mexican couple who sat next to me on the ADO bus from Cancún and who, when I mentioned I was going to Mérida, looked at each other and said: get off at Valladolid.

I stayed three days.

The Cenote

Cenote Zací is in the middle of the city, entered through a gate on Calle 36 that opens into a courtyard that could be mistaken for a municipal park. You pay a small entrance fee, descend a stone staircase into the earth, and find yourself in a cavern whose ceiling has partially collapsed — the result is a pool of extraordinary blue-green water, lit from above by the opening in the rock, with swallows nesting in the walls and small catfish visible in the clarity below. The temperature is a constant 24°C.

I swam there alone at eight in the morning on a Tuesday. By ten, a school group had arrived. The Tuesday morning window is the right one.

Cenote Xkekén (also called Dzitnup), six kilometers west of town by bicycle or colectivo, is a different configuration: a near-complete cave, entered via a narrow passage, with a pool lit by a single shaft of light from a small hole in the ceiling above. The water is more turquoise, the cave more dramatic, and by mid-morning more crowded. Go at opening time (8am) or late afternoon.

The Town

Valladolid’s colonial center is modest in scale and well-preserved without being precious about it. The main plaza is functional — a large green square with a fountain, benches, and the church of San Servacio on one side — but the life of the town happens in the surrounding streets rather than the plaza itself.

The Mercado Municipal on Calle 32 is the best market I have used in the Yucatán peninsula, by which I mean the one most oriented toward people who actually live in the town rather than tourists who are passing through. The food stalls in the interior serve sopa de lima, poc chuc, and cochinita pibil from early morning at prices that reflect local purchasing power. A bowl of lime soup with hand-pressed tortillas costs about the same as a bus ticket to the next town.

La Casona del Venado, a textile and craft collective on Calle 41, sells regional Yucatecan embroidery, henequen products, and locally-made hammocks. The hammocks here are cheaper than in Mérida and the selection is better than the market stalls: ask to see the doble-tejido (double-woven) versions, which are heavier and last longer.

Walking the residential streets between the center and the calzada — the wide boulevard that runs south from the plaza — reveals a town that has mostly escaped the tourism economy that has transformed nearby cities. The houses are low, painted in the Yucatecan pastels, with hammocks visible through open front doors in the midday heat.

Getting to Chichén Itzá

Valladolid is forty-five minutes from Chichén Itzá by bus or colectivo, which makes it a far superior base than the resort hotels built immediately adjacent to the site. Staying in Valladolid, you can leave by the first colectivo (usually around 7am), reach the ruins before the tour buses from Cancún arrive at nine, see the site in relative quiet for two hours, and be back in Valladolid for lunch.

This is the correct way to see Chichén Itzá. The site itself — the Pyramid of Kukulcán, the Ball Court, the Cenote Sagrado — is genuinely extraordinary. The crowds that arrive between 10am and 3pm, when the tour buses disgorge, are extraordinary in a different way. The early morning, when the mist is still on the grass and the pyramid is lit at an angle, is when you understand why people have been making this journey for a thousand years.

When to go: November through March for dry, manageable heat. Avoid the equinox (March 20-21) when the shadow-serpent phenomenon on the Pyramid of Kukulcán draws enormous crowds. Cenotes are swimmable year-round.

Getting there: Direct ADO buses from Cancún (2h), Mérida (2h), and Mexico City (overnight). Valladolid is on the main Mérida-Cancún highway and accessible by colectivo from both.