Bornholm

Bornholm sits in the Baltic between Sweden and Poland, closer to both than to the rest of Denmark, and this geographical independence has given it a distinct character. The island’s round churches — four white-washed, fortress-like structures from the twelfth century — are found nowhere else in Denmark. The smokehouses of Gudhjem produce some of the finest smoked herring in Scandinavia, served on dark bread with a raw egg yolk on top, a dish so iconic it has its own name: Sol over Gudhjem, sun over Gudhjem.

The light here drew artists from the 1880s onward, and the tradition continues in studios and galleries scattered across the island. The rocky coastline at Hammershus — Scandinavia’s largest castle ruin — drops dramatically into the sea. Dueodde beach in the south has sand so fine it was once used in hourglasses. Cycling the island’s network of paths is the best way to move between it all.

When to go: June through August for the best weather and all services operating. May and September for quieter paths and warm light. The herring season peaks in spring. Winter is very quiet — most restaurants and studios close.