Bodmin Moor

Most people cross Bodmin Moor on the A30, the main road that bisects it, and see a flat brown expanse through their windscreen and wonder what the fuss is about. The moor reveals itself to walkers. I parked near Minions on a March morning when the forecast was optimistic and the reality was more nuanced — low cloud, a wind that had presumably come directly from Siberia, patches of brightness between the grey — and walked east to the Hurlers, three Bronze Age stone circles standing in a rough line on the moorland.

The Hurlers are one of those Neolithic sites where the academic explanations fall short of the felt reality. Three circles, hundreds of stones, arranged in a geometry that took serious human effort to achieve over terrain that was difficult three thousand years ago and is still difficult on a wet Wednesday. I walked among them and felt the usual complicated mix of being moved and being unable to say why. The moorland stretches in every direction from the circles, nothing but heather and granite and the occasional ponies, their coats grown dense against the weather.

Brown Willy and Roughtor are the two highest points on the moor and on clear days from their summits you can see both coasts of Cornwall — the Atlantic to the north, the English Channel to the south. I climbed Roughtor in September and the view was that particular kind of breathtaking that flat countries produce: not precipitous but vast, the whole peninsula laid out in one slow rotation of your attention. The granite tors at the summit are stacked in geological formations that resemble deliberately arranged sculpture more than random geology.

Jamaica Inn at Bolventor is neither as good nor as bad as its reputation. Yes, it’s a tourist operation built on Daphne du Maurier’s novel, and yes, the coach parties can overwhelm it. But the building is genuinely old — an eighteenth-century coaching inn that served the mail coaches crossing the moor — and on a winter afternoon when the fog has come down and you’re on your second pint of Tribute beside the fire, the atmosphere doesn’t require invention.

When to go: May and June for the moorland in flower, or October for the autumn colors in the river valleys. Winter is the honest version — cold, sometimes snow on the tors, and a quality of quiet that is absolute. Avoid summer Bank Holidays when the A30 backs up and the moor feels diminished by its own visitors.