Sedalia

Sedalia grew up as a railroad boomtown in the 1860s, and it still has the wide streets and brick warehouses of a place built fast around freight and cattle. But what brought us here was music history — Scott Joplin lived in Sedalia in the 1890s, playing piano in the Black social clubs along Main Street, and it was here in 1899 that he published the Maple Leaf Rag, the composition that effectively launched ragtime into the American mainstream. Lia, a far better musician than me, had a small pilgrimage-like reverence about the whole visit that I didn’t fully share until I saw the old Katy Depot.

Katy Depot and the ragtime legacy

The Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad’s old depot, a handsome red-brick building downtown, has been restored as a museum and welcome center, its waiting rooms preserved much as they’d have looked when Joplin himself might have passed through. A small exhibit traces ragtime’s roots in Sedalia’s Black community and the clubs, since demolished, where the style first took shape before spreading to St. Louis and beyond. Every June, the Scott Joplin International Ragtime Festival brings pianists from around the world to play his compositions on the same streets where he wrote them.

The State Fairgrounds and Main Street

Sedalia has hosted the Missouri State Fair every August since 1901, and the fairgrounds on the edge of town sit empty and oddly peaceful the rest of the year, chain-link and grandstands baking quietly in the heat. Downtown, Ohio Street has a handful of antique shops and diners in buildings that have clearly seen better decades but haven’t given up, and we ate a genuinely excellent plate lunch at a counter that’s apparently been serving the same menu since the 1970s.

Getting There

Sedalia sits about ninety minutes east of Kansas City and two and a half hours west of St. Louis, both connected by US-50, with Kansas City International (MCI) the more convenient major airport. A car is essential — there’s no rail passenger service left despite the town’s railroad heritage, and the sights are spread across town.