Elgin

Elgin sits on the Fox River northwest of Chicago, and for the better part of a century it was synonymous with one thing: watches. The Elgin National Watch Company, founded in 1864, became the largest watch manufacturer in the country, employing thousands and shipping millions of pocket watches across America before the factory finally closed in 1968. Lia and I hadn’t known any of this before arriving, and left having learned more about horology than either of us expected to in a single afternoon.

The Elgin History Museum and watch legacy

A small history museum downtown holds an impressive collection of Elgin watches, from ornate gold pocket models to the precision railroad-grade timepieces the company was famous for, and a retired watchmaker volunteering there walked us through how the movements were assembled, tweezers and loupe included. The original factory complex is long gone, but the museum, along with a scattering of plaques around downtown, keeps the story from disappearing entirely, which felt important in a town that could easily have let it go.

The Fox River and downtown revival

Downtown Elgin has spent the last two decades rebuilding around the Fox River itself, with a riverwalk, restored theater, and a floating casino that draws weekend crowds from across the Chicago suburbs. We walked the riverwalk at dusk as the historic Elgin Tower Building lit up across the water, a genuinely handsome Art Deco skyscraper that looks almost out of scale for a city this size, another leftover of the watch-money era that built more downtown than a typical town its size would have.

Getting There

Elgin is about forty minutes northwest of Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport via I-90, and is also served by Metra commuter rail directly from downtown Chicago. A car helps for reaching outlying sights, though downtown and the riverwalk are easily walkable once you arrive.