Brda

Everyone who has heard of Brda describes it the same way — Slovenia’s Tuscany — and I arrived expecting to roll my eyes at the comparison and instead found myself nodding along within the first twenty minutes. The hills roll in identical soft waves, vineyards striping the slopes in tidy rows, cypress trees planted with obvious intent along driveways, stone farmhouses the color of old bone. The comparison is lazy shorthand, but it’s also just accurate, and I stopped resisting it somewhere around the second glass of wine.

Wine Hills Without a Border

Brda sits directly against Italy’s Collio wine region, and the two areas are, geologically and culturally, the same place split by a 20th-century line that the vines clearly never agreed to respect. We drove several backroads that crossed the frontier without so much as a sign, the vineyards on either side indistinguishable, the wine styles closely related — both regions favor the same local grape, Rebula (Ribolla Gialla on the Italian side), grown in the same marl-and-sandstone soil the locals call opoka. We tasted it at a small family cellar in Dobrovo, where the owner poured us four vintages side by side and let us watch how dramatically the wine changed with just two or three years of age.

Cherries Before the Grapes

Before it was known for wine, Brda was known for cherries, and the orchards still cover a huge share of the hillsides, blossoming in a pale pink wave each spring that draws its own small crowd of photographers. We were there in early summer, past blossom season but right in the middle of cherry harvest, and bought a bag from a roadside stand run by a woman who waved off payment for the extra handful she pressed on us “for the road.” Lia ate most of the bag before we’d gone another five kilometers.

The Castle Above It All

Dobrovo Castle, a squat Renaissance building at the region’s center, houses a small gallery and a wine cellar in its vaulted basement, but the real reason to climb up there is the view from its terrace — the entire patchwork of vineyards and orchards spread out below, the Julian Alps visible to the north on a clear day, and if you look carefully, the exact spot where the hills stop being Slovenian and start being Italian, though nothing on the ground marks it.

When to go: April for cherry blossoms, June and July for the cherry harvest itself, and September through October for grape harvest and new wine. Each season shows a genuinely different landscape.