Chablis

For years I associated the word Chablis mostly with mediocre carafe wine at Parisian brasseries, a generic white poured without much ceremony, and I didn’t fully appreciate that Chablis is also a specific, very small town in northern Burgundy — barely two and a half thousand people — until Lia planned a detour there on our way south. Standing on the Grand Cru hillside above town with a glass of the real thing, cool and mineral and nothing like what I’d been drinking under that name for a decade, felt like a mild personal reckoning.

Kimmeridgian clay and a very specific hill

Chablis sits on a narrow band of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, a marine soil about a hundred and fifty million years old, packed with tiny fossilized oyster shells, and this exact geology is what local winemakers insist gives Chablis its signature flinty, almost saline character, distinct from Chardonnay grown anywhere else, including elsewhere in Burgundy. The seven Grand Cru vineyards all sit on a single south-facing hillside just north of town, and we walked up through the rows on a marked path, our guide occasionally crouching to dig out a handful of pale, chalky soil studded with tiny shell fragments to prove the geology wasn’t just marketing. Below us, the town itself looked almost absurdly small to have lent its name to a wine style produced, badly, all over the world.

A small town living entirely off one hillside

Chablis’s town centre is modest — a Gothic church, a scattering of stone houses along the Serein river, a handful of wine shops and one very good restaurant we lucked into on Rue des Moulins — and it wears its outsized reputation lightly. We tasted at a small family domaine just off the main square, working through a Petit Chablis, a village-level wine, and finally a Grand Cru side by side, and the differences in minerality and weight, explained patiently by the winemaker’s daughter who’d grown up on that exact hillside, were obvious even to two people who don’t taste wine for a living. It was, oddly, one of the more educational hours of our whole Burgundy trip, packed into a town you could walk across in ten minutes.

When to go: September for harvest, when the Grand Cru hillside is at its most active, or late spring when the vines are freshly leafed and the domaines are less rushed for tastings.