Concord

Concord is one of the smallest state capitals in the country, home to barely forty-five thousand people, and it wears that scale unapologetically — the New Hampshire State House, its dome regilded in real gold leaf, sits at the center of downtown surrounded by little more than a few blocks of shops and government offices. Lia and I came expecting a formal, self-important state capital and instead found somewhere you could walk end to end in twenty minutes, which turned out to be part of the charm.

Inside the State House

We wandered in on a Tuesday, more curious than anything, and discovered New Hampshire’s legislature is the third-largest in the English-speaking world by number of members — four hundred representatives for a state of barely a million and a half people — crammed into a chamber so small that lawmakers sit shoulder to shoulder at shared desks. A docent let us sit in the gallery for twenty minutes while representatives debated a local zoning bill with more genuine passion than I expected, and it was hard not to be a little charmed by how unpolished and human the whole thing felt compared to a state capitol built for spectacle.

Main Street and the Kimball Jenkins estate

Concord’s Main Street runs a few blocks south of the State House, a walkable stretch of restaurants and bookshops that never feels like it’s performing quaintness for visitors, since most of the people on it are clearly just running errands. We ended our afternoon at the Kimball Jenkins estate, a Second Empire mansion turned arts center on the edge of downtown, its gardens open to wander for free, and sat on the lawn eating sandwiches from a Main Street deli while a watercolor class worked nearby under the trees.

Getting There

Concord is about an hour’s drive north of Boston Logan International Airport (BOS) via I-93, making it an easy day trip or overnight from the city. Manchester-Boston Regional Airport (MHT) is closer still, roughly twenty minutes south. A car is the most practical way to get here and around, though downtown itself is entirely walkable once you’ve parked.