Asia
Palawan
"I floated in Big Lagoon and forgot, briefly, that the rest of the world existed."
The boat cuts the engine and you drift the last twenty meters into Big Lagoon in silence, because the boatman knows — sound would break something here. The walls come up on all sides, vertical limestone karsts draped in jungle, and the water below you goes from deep navy to the kind of turquoise that makes you doubt your own eyes. I have been to a lot of places that people call paradise. Palawan is the first one where the word felt accurate rather than lazy.
El Nido is the base most travelers use, and it earns it. The island-hopping tours — Tour A through Tour C, taken in roughly that order — are genuinely magnificent, a morning of paddling through hidden lagoons and secret beaches that have no business being real. But the crowds in El Nido town itself have thickened considerably in recent years, and the smarter move is to base yourself in Nacpan, forty minutes north, where the four-kilometer beach is still mostly quiet and the sunsets don’t require an audience. Further south, Coron offers a completely different character — the diving above WWII Japanese shipwrecks is some of the finest wreck diving I have done anywhere, and Kayangan Lake, even with its Instagram notoriety, hits differently when you are floating in it at seven in the morning before the day-trippers arrive.
The food on Palawan is not the reason you come, but the kinilaw — local raw fish cured in coconut vinegar and ginger, eaten at small restaurants with sand floors and plastic tables — is one of those things I ate every day and still think about. Drink the fresh buko juice. Eat the grilled pork skewers at the Rizal Avenue street stalls in Puerto Princesa and feel briefly, perfectly, like you are living a life without complications.
When to go: November to May is dry season. December and January offer the calmest seas for island-hopping and the most reliable blue skies. February and March are the sweet spot — peak dry season with slightly fewer crowds than the Christmas holiday rush. Avoid June through October, when the southwest monsoon grounds boats and closes lagoons for days at a time.
What most guides get wrong: They send you to El Nido and nowhere else. Coron is not a compromise — it is a different destination entirely, equally extraordinary, less walked-over. The Palawan mainland between the two, including the underground river at Sabang, is genuinely interesting but can be done in a day if you plan logistics in advance. The island rewards people who treat it as an archipelago to explore, not a single resort to check off.