Naigani Island

Naigani is a short boat ride, about forty-five minutes, from Wailailai Landing near Rakiraki on Viti Levu’s northeast coast, and it’s shaped less like the flat coral islands elsewhere in the Lomaiviti group and more like a green hill someone dropped into the Koro Sea. Steep, forested slopes come down almost to the water on most sides, leaving a scatter of small bays and a single sandy beach where the island’s one resort and its neighbouring village both sit.

We stayed at the resort for three nights, in a simple bure with a deck that looked directly out onto the bay, and spent most of our time doing the sort of thing that doesn’t photograph particularly well but that I still think about regularly — snorkelling out from the beach over a reef shelf that drops gradually rather than all at once, so you can spend twenty minutes in waist-deep water watching parrotfish graze before the coral even gets interesting. A resident dive instructor named Josua took us out to a site called the Cathedral, a swim-through with light shafting down through a coral archway, and afterward admitted with some pride that most divers who come to Fiji never make it to Naigani because it isn’t on the standard circuit.

The village adjacent to the resort, also called Naigani, maintains a formal relationship with the property — a portion of guest fees goes toward village development, and guests are welcome at Sunday church services if they ask respectfully in advance. Lia and I went, dressed as modestly as our packing allowed, and sat through a service conducted almost entirely in Fijian, following along by watching when the congregation stood and sat, and were invited afterward to a family’s home for tea and a plate of fried breadfruit that turned out to be one of the better things either of us ate in Fiji.

A trail behind the resort climbs to a ridge with a view over both the bay and, on the clearest days, the outline of Ovalau across the water — a forty-minute walk each way through dense bush, humid enough that I arrived back at the beach ready to get straight back in the water.

When to go: May through October for the driest hiking trails and best snorkelling visibility. Boat transfers depend on sea conditions, so confirm departure times the morning of rather than assuming a fixed schedule.