Vermont

I arrived in Vermont on a Wednesday in mid-October and the hills were on fire. Not metaphorically — the sugar maples had turned a shade of red-orange that doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world, and the light at four in the afternoon came through them sideways, golden and slightly unreal. I pulled over on Route 100 south of Stowe and just stood there for a few minutes, which is not something I typically do.

Vermont is the smallest state in the Northeast and somehow the one that makes the loudest argument for a certain way of life. The farms are working farms — dairy mostly, the cows that produce the milk that becomes the raw-milk cheddar you’ll find at Cabot or at the Grafton Village Cheese Company, aged sharp enough to make you reconsider every mild cheddar you’ve tolerated before. The craft brewery scene is not a scene so much as a fact of geography: Hill Farmstead in Greensboro, Alchemist in Stowe, von Trapp Brewing tucked into a hillside that could only be in Vermont. These are not Instagram destinations. They are places people built because they wanted to live in a particular way and needed the economics to support it.

The covered bridges are real and they are everywhere — Woodstock alone has several within a few miles, and the town itself is the kind of place that makes you feel slightly ashamed for not having been there sooner. Cold Hollow Cider Mill presses fresh apple cider on-site from October onward; you drink it standing in the parking lot while it’s still foamy and cold and it tastes like the season concentrated into a cup. In winter the whole state reorients toward the slopes — Stowe, Mad River Glen, Sugarbush — and the villages around them become unusually warm places to be cold in.

When to go: Late September through mid-October for foliage at its peak — aim for Columbus Day weekend, which is insane with visitors but undeniably spectacular. June and July for hiking the Long Trail and swimming in Lake Champlain. February for skiing without the ski-resort chaos of the Christmas holidays.

What most guides get wrong: They send you to Burlington and leave it at that. Burlington is fine — Church Street, the waterfront, a good meal at Hen of the Wood — but Vermont’s soul is in the small towns that require you to actually drive somewhere. Woodstock, Middlebury, Grafton, Peacham. Go deep into the back roads. The GPS will occasionally give up on you. That is the point.