Tongariro

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is frequently called the best single-day hike in New Zealand, and after walking it we had no argument. The 19.4-kilometre trail crosses volcanic terrain between Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe — the cone that became Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films — through a landscape of craters, steam vents, and the Emerald Lakes, whose colour is so vivid it looks artificial. It is not. The minerals do that.

We started at dawn and climbed through tussock, then scoria, then volcanic rock that crunched underfoot like broken pottery. The Red Crater summit gave us a view in every direction — the three volcanoes of the Central Plateau, the Emerald Lakes below glowing like jewels set in grey stone, and Lake Taupo in the distance. The descent through alpine meadow to the Ketetahi carpark took us from moonscape to forest in an hour. The whole crossing took seven hours and covered terrain that ranged from alpine desert to temperate rainforest. Every landscape New Zealand offers, compressed into a single walk.

When to go: November through April for the best weather and accessible trail conditions. December through February is peak but the crossing handles crowds well. Winter brings snow and ice — crampons and ice axes required. The weather changes rapidly — check conditions on the day. Book shuttle transport in advance.