Auckland
"More boats per capita than anywhere on Earth, and from the top of a volcano you can see why."
Auckland sprawls across an isthmus between two harbours — the Waitemata on the Pacific side and the Manukau on the Tasman — and the result is a city where water is never more than a few minutes away. We climbed Rangitoto Island, a volcanic cone in the harbour reached by ferry, and found a lava field forest and a summit view that encompassed the entire city, the gulf islands, and the Coromandel Peninsula in the distance.
The Viaduct Harbour had the restaurants and the waterfront atmosphere. Ponsonby Road had the boutiques, the cafes, and the weekend brunch culture that Auckland takes seriously. We drove to the west coast beaches — Piha and Muriwai — where black volcanic sand met the Tasman Sea in waves that were powerful and beautiful. Mount Eden, a volcanic cone in the suburbs, gave us a sunset view of the skyline with the Sky Tower spearing the sky. The food scene reflected Auckland’s Pacific Rim position — Polynesian, Asian, and European influences in a city that is the most diverse in New Zealand.
When to go: December through March for summer warmth, sailing, and beach weather. Auckland is mild year-round but rain is frequent. February is the driest month. The America’s Cup heritage makes summer the sailing season. Rangitoto is best on a clear day for the summit views.