Colourful houses of Akureyri cascading down a hillside to the calm Eyjafjordur fjord
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Akureyri

"Iceland's second city feels like a village that dreamed bigger and got everything right."

Akureyri sits at the head of Eyjafjordur, Iceland’s longest fjord, protected from the worst of the island’s weather by surrounding mountains. The result is a town that feels surprisingly mild — botanical gardens bloom with unexpected variety, trees actually grow to full height, and the atmosphere is gentler than the capital. Heart-shaped traffic lights, a legacy of a local campaign, add a touch of warmth that suits the place perfectly.

The town is the base for some of northern Iceland’s greatest sights. Godafoss, the waterfall of the gods — where Iceland’s lawspeaker threw his Norse idols when the country converted to Christianity in 1000 AD — is a thirty-minute drive. The Myvatn area, with its volcanic craters, lava formations, and natural baths, is an hour east. Akureyri’s own ski slopes at Hlidarfjall offer some of the best skiing in Iceland, with views over the fjord.

When to go: June through August for the warmest weather and longest days. Skiing runs from November to May with surprisingly reliable snow. The town’s Christmas decorations in December are famous across Iceland. Year-round access via domestic flights from Reykjavik.