St. Moritz invented winter tourism — literally. In 1864, a hotelier bet his English guests they would enjoy the Alps in winter, and the modern ski holiday was born. The town has been trading on glamour ever since, hosting two Winter Olympics and attracting a clientele that arrives by private jet. But strip away the luxury branding and St. Moritz is genuinely special: the Engadin Valley receives over 300 days of sunshine per year, and the light here has a crystalline quality that photographers and painters have been chasing for centuries.
In winter, the frozen lake becomes a venue for polo, cricket, and horse racing on ice — surreal spectacles set against a mountain panorama. The skiing spans multiple areas, with Corviglia offering the best slopes and Diavolezza providing glacier skiing with views of the Bernina massif. In summer, the valley transforms into hiking and mountain biking terrain, with the Bernina Express railway — a UNESCO World Heritage route — crossing viaducts and spiral tunnels between St. Moritz and Tirano in Italy. The Segantini Museum houses the work of the painter who captured Engadin light better than anyone.
When to go: January to March for skiing and frozen lake events. July to September for hiking in the Engadin’s legendary sunshine.