The Wachau Valley is the most beautiful stretch of the Danube — a thirty-kilometer UNESCO World Heritage corridor between Melk and Krems where the river winds through steep, vine-covered hills dotted with castle ruins, Baroque monasteries, and villages that seem to exist primarily to produce excellent wine and apricot products.
Melk Abbey presides over the western entrance — a massive Baroque monastery whose library and church interiors are among the most lavish in Europe. Dürnstein, with its blue church tower and ruined castle where Richard the Lionheart was held prisoner, is the valley’s most romantic stop. The vineyards produce Grüner Veltliner and Riesling of remarkable quality — the terraced slopes force low yields and the Danube moderates the climate. Cycle the river path between towns, stopping at Heurigen — wine taverns where the vintner serves the current vintage with cold platters of smoked meats, cheese, and bread. The apricot harvest in July produces Marillenschnaps, dumplings, and jam worth planning a trip around.
When to go: April through June for apricot blossoms and spring wines. September through October for the grape harvest and autumn colors along the Danube.